My second day of getting an export clearance was just as painful as yesterday. In the breaks while various clerks reread all the paperwork, my Malagasy Gemmologist, Rufin, set up a meeting with the director of gemstone exportation and the IGM school. I discussed my proposed tours and what a pain it would be for tourist to have to go through this procedure. But they are adamant if they buy over $500us they must have a customs clearance.
I next proposed that since I would have a business visa if bundle it all up and export it all under my name. They were happy with this until they asked how I was going to know what stones were whose. I told them all the smaller bags, in the larger bag, would have their name on it. No way, it all had to be in one bag so it could be tipped out on a scale and weighted all together. Even a suggestion that they could include the bags in the weight was vetoed, apparently it will throw their “production figures” out. I get the feeling that they really don’t care.
Rufin is going to talk to the minister, who is a friend of his, and as I found out today when I spoke to him on the phone, I bought some rough off his son, but it was actually the minister’s rough. I won’t write off having tours yet but I don’t really think people are going to want to spend the last two days of a tour being shuffled back and forward from one government office to another.
Today at lunch time I bought some of the best coloured aquamarine, true Santa Maria blue, and a parcel of bubblegum pink and mint coloured Tourmaline. It’s too late to include them in this clearance, so I’m going to get my partner to double the weight I bought today and add the spinels, green apatite and chrysoberyl coming from south, and then he will send them next week.
This will be my last entry from Madagascar as I fly out to Mauritius tomorrow, have a one day stop over and then fly to Perth on Saturday night arriving Sunday lunchtime. A day lay over there as I have to get the customs done on Monday morning and its home on Monday Night.
I may do some more photos and an entry in Mauritius as I’m planning on buying some gifts and a few new things for Sandra to play with. In one of the markets I found some guys making necklaces using a variety of natural coloured drilled sea urchin spines and they were really good and unusual. They were going to have a packet of various shapes and colours there Saturday morning for me, I hope they remember. If not they’ll have to go and get them as I already have the wife excited about them.
I will see club members on Wednesday at the club and I have to go now as all this typing is stopping me from getting my daily allowance of quinine from the tonic water. See you all soon.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
14th July Tana
I woke feeling very happy and it lasted until I was briefed by the customs broker on the new procedures. Under the old buyers card system "DSTM" you got receipts and went early to the airport on your day of departure, presented them and your card and they worked out your duty, 3% of your receipts, which you paid and that was it.
Under the new system, that takes two days:
1: you take your stones to the Institute of Gemmology and they verify what type of stones are in each parcel and start filling out the paperwork for customs. Its not free, it cost $15us per catagory on the form. For example if you buy a tourmaline specimen, some tourmaline rough and a cut tourmaline, as I did, thats 3 catagories or $45.
2: they then grade the stone, for size and clarity as its a different price for each stone. I thought that they were talking about duty, but no receipts are no longer required, they tell you what they believe they are worth and it has nothing to do with what you paid. Your not here but if you were you would have seen me get a little bit antsy about now. I had words to the gemmologist doing my stones, she is three years finished her FGA and went straight into teaching at the institute with no experience outside the classroom. She always picked the biggest stone to weight and that became the average weight, until I challenged her on it. "Not happy Jan"
3: Then its up to the Dept of Mines, "DOM" where they take her form and write in pencil the cost per carat or gram for each catagory. They have a book, only they have, which list all these prices and I don't know where they come from.
4: The last step for the day the broker goes away and prepares the form with all the cost per catagory based on the information the Institute and DOM give her. I go back to the hotel and try to drown my sorrows.
What I have to look forward to tomorrow!
5: I meet back with broker at the DOM at 9 o'clock where her form and figures are checked. If I'm happy, the stones are then taken off me and sealed in boxes, which I get at the airport when I leave. If I'm not happy I can lodge an appeal, yes and I'm sure they will get around to it by Friday when I leave! At least she has said I can lock them in my carry on bag. Still not happy about them being out of my sight for 24hrs.
6: After stamping the form, we then head to the bank which must raise an export invoice, after siting and getting copies of my passport, visa and return ticket.
7: its then back to the DOM, to a different person, as they only look after one aspect of the process, to get the invoice approved and stamped.
8: back to the bank where I pay the invoice, another stamp on the form and a receipt.
9: lastly back to the DOM to get the final clearance.
Now its hard enough going anywhere in Tana by car but this much back and forth is a joke. To top it all off government and big business shuts from 12 - 2pm for lunch.
New systems are supposed to streamline a process and in the case of a government usually means an increase of fees. This new system only meets one of those criteria.
I am doing this blog at the bar as it has the best wifi reception and they have just told me they have no more gin left, "shirly I haven't drunken that mush". What I have to put up with, vodka instead please!
I've also spoken to the Director general of mines today about bringing tours of lapidary and gemmology people here and the impact this will have. His only comment was that they will have to spend under the limit of $500us or go through this two day process. Now as I sit here tonight and think about all the people that have said they would like to come on a tour here, I could not think of anyone that would come all this way and spend less than that amount.
Unless I can come up with a solution tomorrow, with my broker, I might be confronting a tour killer. This will be a big loss as I spent the first couple of weeks going over routes, hotels, restaurants, mines etc and I have already sent my itinerary out to three tour companies for a per person quote for accommodation, transport, all meals, guides, drivers etc based on a 10 - 12 person tour.
I'm calling it a night as I have had enough of raving and I don't want to damage the laptop falling up the stairs plus I need my sleep as I have so much to look forward to tomorrow. Firts thing will be to make sure the bar gets another bottle of gin. I only drink it for the medicinal virtues of the quinine in the tonic!
Under the new system, that takes two days:
1: you take your stones to the Institute of Gemmology and they verify what type of stones are in each parcel and start filling out the paperwork for customs. Its not free, it cost $15us per catagory on the form. For example if you buy a tourmaline specimen, some tourmaline rough and a cut tourmaline, as I did, thats 3 catagories or $45.
2: they then grade the stone, for size and clarity as its a different price for each stone. I thought that they were talking about duty, but no receipts are no longer required, they tell you what they believe they are worth and it has nothing to do with what you paid. Your not here but if you were you would have seen me get a little bit antsy about now. I had words to the gemmologist doing my stones, she is three years finished her FGA and went straight into teaching at the institute with no experience outside the classroom. She always picked the biggest stone to weight and that became the average weight, until I challenged her on it. "Not happy Jan"
3: Then its up to the Dept of Mines, "DOM" where they take her form and write in pencil the cost per carat or gram for each catagory. They have a book, only they have, which list all these prices and I don't know where they come from.
4: The last step for the day the broker goes away and prepares the form with all the cost per catagory based on the information the Institute and DOM give her. I go back to the hotel and try to drown my sorrows.
What I have to look forward to tomorrow!
5: I meet back with broker at the DOM at 9 o'clock where her form and figures are checked. If I'm happy, the stones are then taken off me and sealed in boxes, which I get at the airport when I leave. If I'm not happy I can lodge an appeal, yes and I'm sure they will get around to it by Friday when I leave! At least she has said I can lock them in my carry on bag. Still not happy about them being out of my sight for 24hrs.
6: After stamping the form, we then head to the bank which must raise an export invoice, after siting and getting copies of my passport, visa and return ticket.
7: its then back to the DOM, to a different person, as they only look after one aspect of the process, to get the invoice approved and stamped.
8: back to the bank where I pay the invoice, another stamp on the form and a receipt.
9: lastly back to the DOM to get the final clearance.
Now its hard enough going anywhere in Tana by car but this much back and forth is a joke. To top it all off government and big business shuts from 12 - 2pm for lunch.
New systems are supposed to streamline a process and in the case of a government usually means an increase of fees. This new system only meets one of those criteria.
I am doing this blog at the bar as it has the best wifi reception and they have just told me they have no more gin left, "shirly I haven't drunken that mush". What I have to put up with, vodka instead please!
I've also spoken to the Director general of mines today about bringing tours of lapidary and gemmology people here and the impact this will have. His only comment was that they will have to spend under the limit of $500us or go through this two day process. Now as I sit here tonight and think about all the people that have said they would like to come on a tour here, I could not think of anyone that would come all this way and spend less than that amount.
Unless I can come up with a solution tomorrow, with my broker, I might be confronting a tour killer. This will be a big loss as I spent the first couple of weeks going over routes, hotels, restaurants, mines etc and I have already sent my itinerary out to three tour companies for a per person quote for accommodation, transport, all meals, guides, drivers etc based on a 10 - 12 person tour.
I'm calling it a night as I have had enough of raving and I don't want to damage the laptop falling up the stairs plus I need my sleep as I have so much to look forward to tomorrow. Firts thing will be to make sure the bar gets another bottle of gin. I only drink it for the medicinal virtues of the quinine in the tonic!
13th July Maevatanana to Tana
An uneventful trip back to the Tana Plaza. A quick call to my customs broker, Madam Didi, to set up an appointment for tomorrow morning, and then I buy some nice aquamarine from a dealer that has turned up and 100 grams of very clean, good colour hessonite (I thought they were spessitite at first) all around two grams in size.
Rufin is off to pick up some aqua and will be back tomorrow afternoon and we are still hoping that some parcels of yellow chrysoberyl, green apatite and spinels (blue, lilac and pink) arrive from the south before I leave. If not Rufin will sort a parcel of the quality I want and send them to me. It’s taken me most of the trip but he finally realizes that I only want the best, in my sizes and that I’m willing to pay higher for them. Not only is he a gemmologist but he also cuts so that helps. He uses a raytect, as that is what they train on at the institute, but he needs some parts that I will source for him and get sent to him. I will be employing him from now on, both to send me parcels and come with me when I come over. He is also going to coordinate all the dealers and mine visits for the tours.
Speaking of getting him parts, that’s with all the other bits and pieces I’ve promised to various cutters, miners and dealers. Dremel core drills bits, rock clippers, a book on opal cutting and setting as they get a type of jelly opal here, plastic zipp lock bags as the Chinese ones here rip very easily, a set of aluminium sieves (I don’t know how I’ll carry them here) because the local ones are made of iron and rust, torches, scales and the list goes on. Also one of the jewellers wants some nice opal he can use for jewellery.
Rufin is off to pick up some aqua and will be back tomorrow afternoon and we are still hoping that some parcels of yellow chrysoberyl, green apatite and spinels (blue, lilac and pink) arrive from the south before I leave. If not Rufin will sort a parcel of the quality I want and send them to me. It’s taken me most of the trip but he finally realizes that I only want the best, in my sizes and that I’m willing to pay higher for them. Not only is he a gemmologist but he also cuts so that helps. He uses a raytect, as that is what they train on at the institute, but he needs some parts that I will source for him and get sent to him. I will be employing him from now on, both to send me parcels and come with me when I come over. He is also going to coordinate all the dealers and mine visits for the tours.
Speaking of getting him parts, that’s with all the other bits and pieces I’ve promised to various cutters, miners and dealers. Dremel core drills bits, rock clippers, a book on opal cutting and setting as they get a type of jelly opal here, plastic zipp lock bags as the Chinese ones here rip very easily, a set of aluminium sieves (I don’t know how I’ll carry them here) because the local ones are made of iron and rust, torches, scales and the list goes on. Also one of the jewellers wants some nice opal he can use for jewellery.
12th July Ambanja to Maevatanana
This wasn’t going to be my overnight stop, but since we stopped to look at spessitite we ran out of time. It has two hotels, one I nearly retched when I walked in the room from the sewage smell and the other had no screens, windows or mozzie nets. I elected mossies, and woke, not that I slept much, the next morning covered in bites. Definitely not a place I will do more than drive through in the future.
I did pick up about 60 grams of good spessitite from the two mines. They are quite different colours with one type your standard orange and the other producing the fanta orange colour. Unfortunately there wasn’t much of the fanta, but Rufin has arranged to collect a parcel of about 100grams and send it to me later.
I did pick up about 60 grams of good spessitite from the two mines. They are quite different colours with one type your standard orange and the other producing the fanta orange colour. Unfortunately there wasn’t much of the fanta, but Rufin has arranged to collect a parcel of about 100grams and send it to me later.
11th July Ambanja
New car arrived at 7 o’clock this morning with two drivers and a mechanic. They tow our vehicle to a garage, to change the gear box with the one they brought with them, and then leave me the new vehicle a Ford Ranger. They’ve have left for Tana when we arrive back that afternoon.
Finally out to the dematoid mines. The 40kms to the closest village is fine but the last 10km to the mine is 4x4 or feet only. The mines are located in an inlet that used to be a mangrove, plus they are starting to creep up the higher ground. As you can see in the photo’s they fill with water being below sea level.
There are two levels of dematoid in seams. One is at approximately 1.5m and the miners sit in the water and just dig out everything and wash it there. The other is at about 18m and requires a group to have a generator for lights and to keep a pump going. They also have to pump it out each morning. The miners have built a levy across the inlet to keep all but the highest tides out so they can work all day. As you can imagine with water constantly seeping in through the walls it’s anything but safe in the deeper mines, but that is where the best material comes from.
I have bought some nice specimens with the stones still on matrix and about 35 grams of facet material 4cts and up, in about 3 hours of looking at stone. Rufin comes here for 1 month at a time and is happy if he gets 200 grams of facet material (2cts and up), so it’s obvious that for me to get 35 grams, of my sizes, in a day that there hasn’t been a buyer here for about a week. Note bring a hat, as there is no shade and it was in the high 20’s here today.
Back at the hotel a few people show up with specimens. Point to note here is to smell the specimens as some are enhanced with extra stones attached with super glue. I buy a couple of spectacular pieces one with 4 crystals all about 12-15mm in amongst some white druzy quartz crystals.
I’ve reached my limit on specimens as I have to carry everything through customs and so I’m limited to what will fit in a bag. Then one person unwraps the best specimen I’ve seen. About a 30cm square matrix with 47 crystals over a cm in size, scatterings of smaller crystals in groups and one crystal over 20mm that must have been over 15 grams. All crystals are terminated and showing all the colours of dematoid on the one specimen. He has had this specimen for 18 months and has a $5,000 price tag on it. No I didn’t buy it, but I will ask Bill from BK Minerals if it’s a good buy and maybe do a bit of bargaining next time.
10th July Antsohihy to Ambanja
This was only about 300km but we limped in late in the afternoon after gearbox trouble. The last 5km accompanied by an awful metal grinding sound. That gearbox is well and truly shot. A quick call to Madarental has a new vehicle leaving straight away with two drivers and they will be here by morning. Just a bit on Madarental, they offer a great service and all the cars come with a panic button that activates at the office, which is manned 24hrs. They also have global tracking of the vehicles and they can immobilise them from the office if they are stolen. Also they have a helicopter available to evacuate anyone that is hurt or injured. You pay less than for an avis or budget 4x4, but its dearer than using a local driver with his own car, but the service is the best.
9th July Tana to Antsohihy
They wanted to do the trip to Ambanja in one day but it was never going to happen. It’s about 900km, but in some places, especially coming down from the highlands you only crawl along. It doesn’t help with all the villages along the way. We stop at a village near a spessitite mine and ask around. Rufin’s contact is at one of the mines, there are two in the area, and will have some material for me on the way back.
8th July Moramanga to Tana
I was supposed to pick up, Rufin (my Malagasy partner) and head to Ambanja today but he’s been delayed so we will head there tomorrow. I won’t give you his full name as it would take up an entire line. Yes I will it's Rufin Rakotondranaivo.
7th July Moramanga
What a horror night, all night large trucks continuously going past the hotel, and regardless of the time blowing their horns. I was thinking of this hotel for the tour but will have to find another. If I had more time and my gemmologist with me I’d go out to the mines but the roads are horrors and accommodation very limited. I have bought my first Moramanga sapphire and it’s a colour change variety, green and blue in natural light, which changes to red and blue under incandescent light.
Found the perfect place to stay, Vakona Forest Lodge, right on the edge of a national park. They have their own guides for walks to see lemurs and other animals and it’s very nice. I have lunch here sitting next to a large central fireplace.
I’ve bought a couple of bags of specimen crystals, rubies, sapphires and some others. I’ve spoken to my gemmologist partner and he is going work to get dealers/miners to come from the various mines with their stone for my next trip and the tour.
When I check out the ruby crystals later, I find that one has a large area of facet rough about 10cts in size. What a bonus for the $2 it cost me per crystal. I haven’t seen any good ruby rough above about 1.5cts that hasn’t been glassed filled in Thailand and then brought back to be sold to unsuspecting buyers. It’s illegal to bring rough gemstone into Madagascar, so this with all the tumbled synthetic ruby and sapphire around is being smuggled in.
Found the perfect place to stay, Vakona Forest Lodge, right on the edge of a national park. They have their own guides for walks to see lemurs and other animals and it’s very nice. I have lunch here sitting next to a large central fireplace.
I’ve bought a couple of bags of specimen crystals, rubies, sapphires and some others. I’ve spoken to my gemmologist partner and he is going work to get dealers/miners to come from the various mines with their stone for my next trip and the tour.
When I check out the ruby crystals later, I find that one has a large area of facet rough about 10cts in size. What a bonus for the $2 it cost me per crystal. I haven’t seen any good ruby rough above about 1.5cts that hasn’t been glassed filled in Thailand and then brought back to be sold to unsuspecting buyers. It’s illegal to bring rough gemstone into Madagascar, so this with all the tumbled synthetic ruby and sapphire around is being smuggled in.
6th July Tana – Moramanga
Missing my Malagasy Gemmologist for this leg as he has to be in Antsirabi for a meeting, so it’s just me and the driver. Trip down was uneventful, except for dodging all the broken down trucks going to and from the port of Tamatave. Found a nice hotel, or at least it seemed that in the town and started to look at stone. First afternoon only bought some Rhodolite.
Moramanga is about centre of the gem fields to the north and south. There are ruby, sapphire, garnet, beryl and chrysoberyl that I know of.
Moramanga is about centre of the gem fields to the north and south. There are ruby, sapphire, garnet, beryl and chrysoberyl that I know of.
Monday, July 5, 2010
5th July Tana
I saw and bought a small parcel of yellow zircon and two green zircons. There was also a parcel of mixed colour sphene and about 80 grams of large hessonite garnets.
I also saw a parcel, 1 kilo, of the darkest blue aquamarine I’ve seen on this island, but it had all been picked over and was cabbing only. I was given a couple of pieces and the dealer is going to try to get me some facet quality before I leave. Didn’t give me price as it will depend on what price he pays for it at the mine, but I know it won’t be cheap. Unless I get quite a bit don’t expect to see this for sale except as cut stones.
Just picked up another parcel of yellow, green and pink zircons, not huge but good colours. Also have bought my first aquamarine and hasn’t it gone up in price. Not a huge qty as most weren’t clean but good colours.
Selected 5 pink sapphires from about 2 kilos of material. Most of them were small, poor shaped or included. The five I got were 4-5cts each (4.4grams) and good shapes and colour. I don’t think the seller was happy after all the time sorting to only take five stones, but pink sapphire and ruby are getting to prohibited prices so I’m only prepared to pay those prices for the best with decent sizes.
Lots of glass filled ruby that they are trying to sell as untreated natural. One of the honest dealers told me his were glass filled up front and he buys them from the Thai's, who bring them back from Thailand when they visit. It is bad enough picking out all the synthetic sapphire and ruby that has been broken up and tumbled to make it look like natural river tumbled stone and now there is glass filled ruby here as well. I pity all the tourist who get taken to the cleaners by some of the sellers.
I also saw a parcel, 1 kilo, of the darkest blue aquamarine I’ve seen on this island, but it had all been picked over and was cabbing only. I was given a couple of pieces and the dealer is going to try to get me some facet quality before I leave. Didn’t give me price as it will depend on what price he pays for it at the mine, but I know it won’t be cheap. Unless I get quite a bit don’t expect to see this for sale except as cut stones.
Just picked up another parcel of yellow, green and pink zircons, not huge but good colours. Also have bought my first aquamarine and hasn’t it gone up in price. Not a huge qty as most weren’t clean but good colours.
Selected 5 pink sapphires from about 2 kilos of material. Most of them were small, poor shaped or included. The five I got were 4-5cts each (4.4grams) and good shapes and colour. I don’t think the seller was happy after all the time sorting to only take five stones, but pink sapphire and ruby are getting to prohibited prices so I’m only prepared to pay those prices for the best with decent sizes.
Lots of glass filled ruby that they are trying to sell as untreated natural. One of the honest dealers told me his were glass filled up front and he buys them from the Thai's, who bring them back from Thailand when they visit. It is bad enough picking out all the synthetic sapphire and ruby that has been broken up and tumbled to make it look like natural river tumbled stone and now there is glass filled ruby here as well. I pity all the tourist who get taken to the cleaners by some of the sellers.
4th July Antsirabi to Tana
I had another bad night as this hotel has a big disco every Saturday night and it was louder than normal. This may be the hotel where all the gem deals are done but it’s not very high on my list of places to stay. I’ll stay elsewhere in future and send the driver up to pick up any sellers.
Uneventful trip back to the Tana Plaza Hotel and it’s nice to be greeted by name every time I arrive. They also try to give the same room every time, 210, which is right next to a big balcony where you can sit and watch the world go by. I’m seeing some stone tomorrow and then heading east the day after towards the major port of Tamatave stopping a couple of mines, including the new sapphire area, on the way.
This really is a nice place to stay. The barman knows what I drink and it appears every time I enter the bar, plus he gives me the good nibblies, stuffed olives, little trays of treats you usually get before dinner in the restaurant ect, unlike the peanuts most of the other visitors get. It must be my sunny personality and good looks or possibly the fact I never take the change from a drink, 700 ariary or about 45 cents (Me the last of the big spenders). They also make the ice from bottled water and you can eat the salads and other cold dishes without spending the next day either sitting or kneeling in the loo.
Uneventful trip back to the Tana Plaza Hotel and it’s nice to be greeted by name every time I arrive. They also try to give the same room every time, 210, which is right next to a big balcony where you can sit and watch the world go by. I’m seeing some stone tomorrow and then heading east the day after towards the major port of Tamatave stopping a couple of mines, including the new sapphire area, on the way.
This really is a nice place to stay. The barman knows what I drink and it appears every time I enter the bar, plus he gives me the good nibblies, stuffed olives, little trays of treats you usually get before dinner in the restaurant ect, unlike the peanuts most of the other visitors get. It must be my sunny personality and good looks or possibly the fact I never take the change from a drink, 700 ariary or about 45 cents (Me the last of the big spenders). They also make the ice from bottled water and you can eat the salads and other cold dishes without spending the next day either sitting or kneeling in the loo.
3rd July Antsirabi
Today I visited the “Gem Market” which is right next to my favourite restaurant. First thing I notice is that there is a lot of dematoid garnet, no facet quality but lots of individual crystals, faceted gemstones and specimens. I bought about 20, 27.7 grams, for specimens for gemo’s and the like. They are lovely crystals the largest two 14 and 15 carats. I also saw a 47.3ct crystal but they wanted too much for it. I also bought 3 specimens with the crystals still on the matrix. Not large crystals, because if they were they would have been pulled off. I have made up my mind that we will definitely be heading there before I leave. 
Second is there is basically no cut emerald, except for some tiny and/or heavily flawed stones. The Government now wants all emerald rough sold by auction, like the Burmese do with the best ruby rough. You have to be invited and be prepared to spend big money and that means the locals miss out.
Didn’t see much decent cut stone, the actual cutting is usually very good, but they cut rough that has flaws, sometimes lots of flaws. I did manage to fill one of Sandra’s requests for a Bi coloured tourmaline. I found 3 flawless ones of 7, 1.27 and 1.19 carats. All an orange/pink and green. This trip I also bought about 16 large cut rock crystals (quartz) that have odd inclusions. The local cutters cut them so the inclusions form a bit of a picture. I think they look great and would definitely be unique in a pendant, Sandra’s waiting to get her hands on some of these as well.
I bought a large slice, 6-7cm across of Polychromatic Tourmaline (Liddicoatite) which has some great colour changes and the triangle in the middle. It was the biggest piece I could find and about the only decent one, but very expensive. Lastly I had to have a great specimen of tourmaline crystals in a spray. There must be about 25 crystals quite a few of them bi coloured and each about 3cms in length, absolutely beautiful.
Didn’t see much decent cut stone, the actual cutting is usually very good, but they cut rough that has flaws, sometimes lots of flaws. I did manage to fill one of Sandra’s requests for a Bi coloured tourmaline. I found 3 flawless ones of 7, 1.27 and 1.19 carats. All an orange/pink and green. This trip I also bought about 16 large cut rock crystals (quartz) that have odd inclusions. The local cutters cut them so the inclusions form a bit of a picture. I think they look great and would definitely be unique in a pendant, Sandra’s waiting to get her hands on some of these as well.
I bought a large slice, 6-7cm across of Polychromatic Tourmaline (Liddicoatite) which has some great colour changes and the triangle in the middle. It was the biggest piece I could find and about the only decent one, but very expensive. Lastly I had to have a great specimen of tourmaline crystals in a spray. There must be about 25 crystals quite a few of them bi coloured and each about 3cms in length, absolutely beautiful.
There really are some great pieces at this market, which would suit all taste. I was there for about 5 hours all up, taking my time and making sure to ask if they had anything special put away. That’s how I got the tourmalines, faceted, sliced and specimen. The last hour, after I had a leisurely lunch, I went back and set up all my instruments on a borrowed counter top and identified stones for the locals. Good PR and some of them are quite surprised to find out what they actually have.
I’ve been warned off heading south by numerous people, including the police, as dangerous because of bandits and since my main reason for heading there was to get some of the blue Ceylon coloured sapphire, and that’s not possible, I’ll heed that warning. Seems they are particularly targeting foreigners being driven around gem areas.
Also had a bit of a health scare waking this morning with a bit of a fever, which I thought was probably from getting drenched and then frozen on the walk yesterday. Since this is a malaria area every fever needs to be checked out, so had a blood test this morning and the doctor has rung to tell me it’s not malaria, take two panadol and go to bed, big sigh of relief as I’ve had it before and it really isn’t pleasant.
2nd July Antsirabi
The trek started after breakfast to the mines and the road once we left the bitumen was a horror. We drove nearly to the top of the ranges to the SE of Antsirabi and then leaving the driver with the vehicle set off. The view was spectacular but hint, check your batteries or take spares. Two photo’s and the batteries are dead.
A short walk brought us to a working Rose Quartz mine. Pink quartz is everywhere, discarded as it’s massive and not gem. They don’t have any gem quality there as they have only just started but I pick up over a kilo of lovely clean, bright pink material that should star.
My guide now heads off cross country to the working beryl mines, aquamarine and morganite. There are apparently only two people still working each, gold again. I’m talking up and down spurs and ranges passing a lot of empty mines on the way.
My guide gets renamed to the answer he gives to every enquiry about how much further “One hundred metres more”. We’re going up a last monster range and he tells me they are near the top. I look at my GPS and we have nearly come 4 km as the crow flys. I don’t want to think about how far it was actually on the ground. It’s cold as there is a strong breeze and Antsirabi is also known as the coldest city on Madagascar, and just before we hit the top we get drenched in a shower. Lovely! If only that is the worst news. We get to the mines and there is no one about. He races off to check with a local village and comes back to tell me they are all at a wedding in Antsirabi. I can hardly blame him as phones don’t work out here so he had no way of knowing. This is the problem when you visit mines. To say I’m buggered when we get back to the car is an understatement.
Straight after lunch I buy some more Iolite and my first decent Tourmaline, 3 stones 12.6grams. I now get to see some sapphire from a new location near the capital, when I check the map it’s only 500kms away, that’s near!!!! It’s a lovely blue but he only has small pieces as he sold the rest this morning whilst I was out hiking. He does have some larger milky coloured blue ones from the same field and since they are cheap I buy them for the heaters to have a go at. Its looks like I will now head north again in a day or so. I’ve been very disappointed with the beryl and tourmaline situation and tomorrow is my last day here. I’m hitting the gem market to see if there are any interesting stones or specimens and I have to see if I can get some stones people want.
A short walk brought us to a working Rose Quartz mine. Pink quartz is everywhere, discarded as it’s massive and not gem. They don’t have any gem quality there as they have only just started but I pick up over a kilo of lovely clean, bright pink material that should star.
My guide now heads off cross country to the working beryl mines, aquamarine and morganite. There are apparently only two people still working each, gold again. I’m talking up and down spurs and ranges passing a lot of empty mines on the way.
My guide gets renamed to the answer he gives to every enquiry about how much further “One hundred metres more”. We’re going up a last monster range and he tells me they are near the top. I look at my GPS and we have nearly come 4 km as the crow flys. I don’t want to think about how far it was actually on the ground. It’s cold as there is a strong breeze and Antsirabi is also known as the coldest city on Madagascar, and just before we hit the top we get drenched in a shower. Lovely! If only that is the worst news. We get to the mines and there is no one about. He races off to check with a local village and comes back to tell me they are all at a wedding in Antsirabi. I can hardly blame him as phones don’t work out here so he had no way of knowing. This is the problem when you visit mines. To say I’m buggered when we get back to the car is an understatement.
Straight after lunch I buy some more Iolite and my first decent Tourmaline, 3 stones 12.6grams. I now get to see some sapphire from a new location near the capital, when I check the map it’s only 500kms away, that’s near!!!! It’s a lovely blue but he only has small pieces as he sold the rest this morning whilst I was out hiking. He does have some larger milky coloured blue ones from the same field and since they are cheap I buy them for the heaters to have a go at. Its looks like I will now head north again in a day or so. I’ve been very disappointed with the beryl and tourmaline situation and tomorrow is my last day here. I’m hitting the gem market to see if there are any interesting stones or specimens and I have to see if I can get some stones people want.
1st July Antsirabi
These photo's were given to me and show where they are mining the Dematoid Garnet on the west coast. They actually live on the mud flats as that is the only way they can protect their little patch of ground. The Malagasy Gemmologist I work with has contacted a friend in the area and has the precise details of how to get there, so he's coming with us. His friend has told him they are now digging shafts down through the mud to get to the seams, but it requires a team to have a pump and generator to empty the shaft every day before they can dig and keep it relatively dry whilst they are digging. This should be an interesting trip. More photo's to come!
Day started well but was over by lunch time. Picked up some Iolite, Spessitite and Rhodolite garnets all in big pieces most over 2 grams.
After lunch we decided to go for a drive to one of the tourmaline mines I know about, but it had been abandoned. The locals told me that someone occasionally works it and it’s still producing but no buyers! That’s funny as all the stones this area is known for, are in very short supply. I haven’t seen any decent beryl or tourmaline as yet.
Antsirabi is in the middle of mountain ranges which produce lots of the gemstones found in Pegmatites. You can see diggings from the main road as you drive along and they are a fraction of the mines in the area. “Veryyy Cheap Price” is going to guide me to some working mines tomorrow morning, rose quartz, morganite and aquamarine.
Day finishes with a gentleman showing up with a small parcel of dematoid garnets. I have bought half a dozen all around 4-5cts and very clean, not cheap but with Namibian dematoid of this size and colour over $50us a carat, I think a good buy. I have been hearing about this find as we travel but no one up to now has been able to give me a location. This guy has pictures and points out the location, bugger, about 15km from where I was under house arrest in Ambanja, a day’s drive north of the capital.
These dematoids are found in the mangroves and mud flats on the coast. They walk in the mud and mangroves and when they feel rock, pick it up. Most stones are still attached to the matrix and are broken off. These are nice crystals and parts of crystals that show little wear. He has given me some great pictures he took on the last trip he did and if I ever get a good connection I load some up. I am now seriously considering heading north again as I also missed connecting with a dealer in Ambanja who deals in sapphire as he was in the bush at the mines.
After lunch we decided to go for a drive to one of the tourmaline mines I know about, but it had been abandoned. The locals told me that someone occasionally works it and it’s still producing but no buyers! That’s funny as all the stones this area is known for, are in very short supply. I haven’t seen any decent beryl or tourmaline as yet.
Antsirabi is in the middle of mountain ranges which produce lots of the gemstones found in Pegmatites. You can see diggings from the main road as you drive along and they are a fraction of the mines in the area. “Veryyy Cheap Price” is going to guide me to some working mines tomorrow morning, rose quartz, morganite and aquamarine.
Day finishes with a gentleman showing up with a small parcel of dematoid garnets. I have bought half a dozen all around 4-5cts and very clean, not cheap but with Namibian dematoid of this size and colour over $50us a carat, I think a good buy. I have been hearing about this find as we travel but no one up to now has been able to give me a location. This guy has pictures and points out the location, bugger, about 15km from where I was under house arrest in Ambanja, a day’s drive north of the capital.
These dematoids are found in the mangroves and mud flats on the coast. They walk in the mud and mangroves and when they feel rock, pick it up. Most stones are still attached to the matrix and are broken off. These are nice crystals and parts of crystals that show little wear. He has given me some great pictures he took on the last trip he did and if I ever get a good connection I load some up. I am now seriously considering heading north again as I also missed connecting with a dealer in Ambanja who deals in sapphire as he was in the bush at the mines.
30th June Antsirabi
I better see some decent rough today or I will be moving hotel. There is a very loud disco, and I do mean disco, every night plus the pillows are like trying to get comfortable on a block of cement.
Okay its better, I’m seeing some rough in the quality and size I want. Throughout the morning and afternoon I pick up, Orthoglase, Rhodolite, some Chrysoberyl, Danburite, facet Rose Quartz, Hessonite Garnet and some gorgeous Sphene. The sphene is only about 10% facetable so it will take some work to cut out the facetable areas from the big pieces but it’s a lovely apple green colour.
I also got some specimens of Rhodizite crystals (that spelling is right), Danburite crystals and about 30 slices of Polychromatic Tourmaline (Liddicoatite). The tourmaline slices are only about 1-2cms across but just about all show the triangle in the middle, not cheap but nice.
Just about to head to dinner and bought a parcel of about 40 grams of green apatite. This is the material they heat to the neon blue and they are 2 gram+ pieces. The seller has promised me more. One of the sellers keeps coming back with small parcels of material, but high quality. I have named him, after what he says every time I ask for a price “Veryyyy Cheap Price”. He has also shown me some very bright red tourmaline, unfortunately already cut, but I may buy some as the cutting is very good and the colour is tops.
Getting the same story here as up north, everyone moved to gold. Another story that I have now heard several times, is the Australian company SIAM, that was mining the top Ceylon coloured blue sapphire in the south, has sold their leases to a large company that now owns all the rights to a huge tract of land in that area. Worse thing is everyone is telling me they are not going to mine the sapphire but the cobalt that is under the sapphire wash. What a waste!
Okay its better, I’m seeing some rough in the quality and size I want. Throughout the morning and afternoon I pick up, Orthoglase, Rhodolite, some Chrysoberyl, Danburite, facet Rose Quartz, Hessonite Garnet and some gorgeous Sphene. The sphene is only about 10% facetable so it will take some work to cut out the facetable areas from the big pieces but it’s a lovely apple green colour.
I also got some specimens of Rhodizite crystals (that spelling is right), Danburite crystals and about 30 slices of Polychromatic Tourmaline (Liddicoatite). The tourmaline slices are only about 1-2cms across but just about all show the triangle in the middle, not cheap but nice.
Just about to head to dinner and bought a parcel of about 40 grams of green apatite. This is the material they heat to the neon blue and they are 2 gram+ pieces. The seller has promised me more. One of the sellers keeps coming back with small parcels of material, but high quality. I have named him, after what he says every time I ask for a price “Veryyyy Cheap Price”. He has also shown me some very bright red tourmaline, unfortunately already cut, but I may buy some as the cutting is very good and the colour is tops.
Getting the same story here as up north, everyone moved to gold. Another story that I have now heard several times, is the Australian company SIAM, that was mining the top Ceylon coloured blue sapphire in the south, has sold their leases to a large company that now owns all the rights to a huge tract of land in that area. Worse thing is everyone is telling me they are not going to mine the sapphire but the cobalt that is under the sapphire wash. What a waste!
29th June Tana - Antsirabi
Well we have left Tana for Antsirabi, the supposed, centre of the gemstone industry in Madagascar. My driver has taken me to the Diamant Hotel because a lot of gemstone people stay there or wait there to sell their stones. It would have to have something going for it as it’s not much to look at or to stay in.
We have some lunch in a restaurant I like just next to the Gem Market and then head back as there are sellers lined up, okay there were 3. After a boring 4 hours I pulled the plug as I was just seeing quartz and already picked over material. Plus some of the stuff I was seeing more than once with different sellers. Two sellers have promised to be back tomorrow with gem rough of the quality and size I want, plus I’m sure the word will get around. Had dinner downstairs and it wasn’t bad, but I took pot luck as the menu is in French, Malagasy and Chinese. Chinese own the hotel.
We have some lunch in a restaurant I like just next to the Gem Market and then head back as there are sellers lined up, okay there were 3. After a boring 4 hours I pulled the plug as I was just seeing quartz and already picked over material. Plus some of the stuff I was seeing more than once with different sellers. Two sellers have promised to be back tomorrow with gem rough of the quality and size I want, plus I’m sure the word will get around. Had dinner downstairs and it wasn’t bad, but I took pot luck as the menu is in French, Malagasy and Chinese. Chinese own the hotel.
26th – 28th June Tana
I had a relaxing time here on Saturday and Sunday. Sat on the big balcony of the hotel Saturday night and watched the celebrations. The Tana Plaza hotel is at one end of Independence Square so I was in the thick of things. The hotel locked the doors at 8 o’clock and strongly discouraged any tourist from going outside as it was standing room only. They also have absolutely no controls for fireworks either and I’m sure that a few of the rockets that came our way were fired on purpose.
Stayed in Tana on Monday, firstly to go to the bank, but mainly to see a dealer a couple of people had recommended. Supposedly he had lots of high quality faceting rough. What did I see, Quartz and lots of it. What a waste of a day.
Stayed in Tana on Monday, firstly to go to the bank, but mainly to see a dealer a couple of people had recommended. Supposedly he had lots of high quality faceting rough. What did I see, Quartz and lots of it. What a waste of a day.
Monday, June 28, 2010
25th June Port Afiny to Tana
Hotel Boabob at Port Afiny- Views from my room, the deck outside and that huge bed.
Three more views of the hotel and the surrounds. This will be one of the places that we will stay on the tour package I'm putting the final touches to for next winter. As I've now found out the Dematoid garnets are found about 40 minutes drive away.
We try to get a hold of a dealer in sapphire in Ambunja, but he is out on the fields. I'm going try to get him to come to Tana or failing that I may take a two day dash up here towards the end. His wife tells my driver he has many good yellow/blues because no one wants party coloured stones. Just may be my lucky day if I can arrange it.
We decide to get back to Tana in one day, mainly because its the 50th Anniversary of Independance this weekend and the driver would like to be with his family. We should get there just after dark, but that has made no allowance for all the early celebrations. It seems every ville is having a parade and there is partying in the streets.
We arrive back in Tana at 10.45pm, to my oasis the Tana Plaza. Too late for food but I have a cold beer and retire to what is becoming my standard room, 210.
Thinking back its been pretty disappointing. I've got enough sapphire to cover the cost but I was expecting both more of it and some other types of rough. The gold panning has really knocked the gemstone mining in the north for a six. Any future trips north will just be for sapphire and will be quick in and out jobs.
I have the weekend off to get some clothes washed and relax before seeing some dealers on Monday and heading south to Antsirabe on Tuesday morning.
We decide to get back to Tana in one day, mainly because its the 50th Anniversary of Independance this weekend and the driver would like to be with his family. We should get there just after dark, but that has made no allowance for all the early celebrations. It seems every ville is having a parade and there is partying in the streets.
We arrive back in Tana at 10.45pm, to my oasis the Tana Plaza. Too late for food but I have a cold beer and retire to what is becoming my standard room, 210.
Thinking back its been pretty disappointing. I've got enough sapphire to cover the cost but I was expecting both more of it and some other types of rough. The gold panning has really knocked the gemstone mining in the north for a six. Any future trips north will just be for sapphire and will be quick in and out jobs.
I have the weekend off to get some clothes washed and relax before seeing some dealers on Monday and heading south to Antsirabe on Tuesday morning.
24th June Vohemar to Port Afiny
Some more images of around the Sol Y Mar Hotel in Vohemar and my room, nothing flash but it all worked.
We set at about 6am and are told at the servo that there has been no rain since we arrived and road has dried out, boy I hope they are right. Early indications are that they are correct. We make good time to a ville about 3 hours away, no name, where I am going to be looking at some sphene. We stop breifly to let a convoy of 4 landcriusers and a hilux go past. Two cruisers front and rear with weapons obvious and the hilux is so weighted down on its springs. the driver tells me its a gold convoy. Now Garry will be able to tell you what at least a tonne of gold is worth and by the way the hilux is sitting on its springs there is more than that.
The sphene is very nice but the miner must think its like diamonds in value, nothing I say can budge him on price, $50us/ct. Its a lovely lime green colour with some in spectactular crystal form, arrowheads, but not at 1/10th of that price. In the end I laugh, throw up the hands and give up.
As we are walking past a small roadside food stop I get a hello from two Canadian backpakers that have been waiting all morning for a bus. pleased to hear another english speaker I offer them a lift to Ambolibe. Dave and Lisa have been visiting a small reserve and are now headed back to the other side of the island. They've been here for about a month in various places and have a week or so to go.
The journey across is a lot quicker, there are graders working on the worst sections. We stop at Ambolibe for a late lunch, and after lunch they decide they are going to the Island of Nosy Bey for some diving. Since its on the way back to Tana they come with me, and I'm glad of the company. We get to the junction of the road to Port Akiney, where they will catch the boat to Nosy Bey, and Ambanja, the place I stayed at the polices request. I know there is bugger all accommodation there so decide to take them to Port Ankiny and see if there is a decent hotel there, its only 17km.
Great decision Hotel Boabob is a beautiful sight right on the beach. Individual bungelows, mine had a king and a half bed, it could have slept 5.
No time to settle in as Italy and Ghana have just kicked off. Nosy Bey has direct flights from Milan so there are a few Italians staying here. Since the Italians knocked us out of the last world cup, I'm supporting Ghana with locals. Its a pretty good couple of hours with lots of beer and wine. The Italians are good sorts, although I'm probably lucky I don't understand some of the things they say when I'm cheering the Ghana Goals. Afterwards they invite us to look at chamelions at night with their guide, fun blundering around with some half cut Italians, but we only saw one.
The food is great and as usual cheap, even in an up market hotel. I go to sleep to the sounds of the sea, literally at my doorstep. I've found out I have the honeymoon bungelow, hence the huge bed.
The sphene is very nice but the miner must think its like diamonds in value, nothing I say can budge him on price, $50us/ct. Its a lovely lime green colour with some in spectactular crystal form, arrowheads, but not at 1/10th of that price. In the end I laugh, throw up the hands and give up.
As we are walking past a small roadside food stop I get a hello from two Canadian backpakers that have been waiting all morning for a bus. pleased to hear another english speaker I offer them a lift to Ambolibe. Dave and Lisa have been visiting a small reserve and are now headed back to the other side of the island. They've been here for about a month in various places and have a week or so to go.
The journey across is a lot quicker, there are graders working on the worst sections. We stop at Ambolibe for a late lunch, and after lunch they decide they are going to the Island of Nosy Bey for some diving. Since its on the way back to Tana they come with me, and I'm glad of the company. We get to the junction of the road to Port Akiney, where they will catch the boat to Nosy Bey, and Ambanja, the place I stayed at the polices request. I know there is bugger all accommodation there so decide to take them to Port Ankiny and see if there is a decent hotel there, its only 17km.
Great decision Hotel Boabob is a beautiful sight right on the beach. Individual bungelows, mine had a king and a half bed, it could have slept 5.
No time to settle in as Italy and Ghana have just kicked off. Nosy Bey has direct flights from Milan so there are a few Italians staying here. Since the Italians knocked us out of the last world cup, I'm supporting Ghana with locals. Its a pretty good couple of hours with lots of beer and wine. The Italians are good sorts, although I'm probably lucky I don't understand some of the things they say when I'm cheering the Ghana Goals. Afterwards they invite us to look at chamelions at night with their guide, fun blundering around with some half cut Italians, but we only saw one.
The food is great and as usual cheap, even in an up market hotel. I go to sleep to the sounds of the sea, literally at my doorstep. I've found out I have the honeymoon bungelow, hence the huge bed.
23rd June Andapa to Vohemar
Three more shots of the road to Andapa and then two of the view from my room at the Sol Y Mar hotel and last a native pirogue, a canue carved from a tree trunk.
Its raining quite heavily in the mountains but clears as we get closer to the coast. I've found the camera, its was wedged under a seat, so I am taking lots of photo's so Sandra doesn't get upset with me. Its a slow trip because of the rain so any thought of attemping the road back across the island today are quickly dashed.
We arrive back at the Sol Y Mar hotel in the faternoon and they have a room so I'm happy. I go for a walk on the beach, check out the catch in the returning pirogues and generally have an afternoon off.
Tomorrow we start early on the horror road back, we have ordered an early breakfast so we can try to get back in daylight.
We arrive back at the Sol Y Mar hotel in the faternoon and they have a room so I'm happy. I go for a walk on the beach, check out the catch in the returning pirogues and generally have an afternoon off.
Tomorrow we start early on the horror road back, we have ordered an early breakfast so we can try to get back in daylight.
22 June Sambava to Andapa
The first three are where I stayed in Sambava, the beach in front of the villa and their pet Lemur. The next three are random shots on the way to Andapa. Its very tropical but all secondary growth as the forest have been cut down.
We left early after a good breakfast. I am puzzled by the setup at the villa. Its owned by a frenchman and he has 3 drop dead gorgeous girls working for him running the place. I had a beer with him last night and coffee this morning. At various stages he has had all three girls sitting in his lap and not as friends or workers.
We drive up to Andapa which is located in a valley deep in the mountains. There is a National Park next to the road for most of the way and the scenery is fantastic. Rains off and on throughout the day as well. As I was to find out a couple of days later, this is one National Park worth seeing but it has no accommodation, its back packing only, with guides, cook and porters of course.
I check out a couple of dealers in Andapa, but its the same old thing quartz or picked over old parcels. The Andapa region was known for its top colour aqua, but that seems to be before gold panning days. We take an afternoon drive up to some of the villages around the valley but its the same thing. I did see some spectacular quartz crystals, all over one kilo in size. They were a smokey centre phantom, with a clear area around it and then another phantom created by red hemaitite flakes. Bit hard to fit them in the hand luggage. I gave the guy the address and number of a dealer in Tana that would be interested.
We stay in Andapa for the night and its quite cold up in the mountains. I have a jumper on for the first time on the trip. Food is good and cheap, and I wash it down with some gin and tonics, (I drink it solely for the quinine in the tonic, medicinal) and watch South Africa knock the French out of the world cup.
We drive up to Andapa which is located in a valley deep in the mountains. There is a National Park next to the road for most of the way and the scenery is fantastic. Rains off and on throughout the day as well. As I was to find out a couple of days later, this is one National Park worth seeing but it has no accommodation, its back packing only, with guides, cook and porters of course.
I check out a couple of dealers in Andapa, but its the same old thing quartz or picked over old parcels. The Andapa region was known for its top colour aqua, but that seems to be before gold panning days. We take an afternoon drive up to some of the villages around the valley but its the same thing. I did see some spectacular quartz crystals, all over one kilo in size. They were a smokey centre phantom, with a clear area around it and then another phantom created by red hemaitite flakes. Bit hard to fit them in the hand luggage. I gave the guy the address and number of a dealer in Tana that would be interested.
We stay in Andapa for the night and its quite cold up in the mountains. I have a jumper on for the first time on the trip. Food is good and cheap, and I wash it down with some gin and tonics, (I drink it solely for the quinine in the tonic, medicinal) and watch South Africa knock the French out of the world cup.
21 June Vohemar - Sambava - Antalaha - Sambava
The first is the view from my room at the Sol Y Mar Hotel. The next five are some shots taken along the coastal road.
Up bright and early, 8am, to an amazing view. Right outside the front door is the beach and you look across a large bay. Fishermen are already out in their pirogues, carved canoes, and best forgotten yesterdays trip, at least for a few days.
Had a lazy breakfast because I told the driver I didn't want to see him until after 9.30. The roads on this side of the island are supposedly the best in Madagascar, so it will be plane sailing.
We set off and I have to admit the road is ver good. Its missinf all the twist and bends and is reasonably straight. Lovely tropical views, villages, palm and banana trees with the occasional beach. Sambava is a lunch and bank stop. They'll only let me change 1000 euros and I'm there nearly an hour.
On to Antalaha where I have a couple of dealers! to see. Well the first shock is there are no real hotels here. It used to be only a dirt road until they upgraded it and no hotels for visitors. We'll have to go back to Samvaba for the night.
The dealers are a wash with only quartz and picked over aqua and garnet.
We locate a villa at Sambava, right on the beach with good cheap rooms and food, but no a/c. Its quite hot here in the high 20's C. Bed early as we hope to go to Andapa and back to Vohemar all in one day tomorrow.
Had a lazy breakfast because I told the driver I didn't want to see him until after 9.30. The roads on this side of the island are supposedly the best in Madagascar, so it will be plane sailing.
We set off and I have to admit the road is ver good. Its missinf all the twist and bends and is reasonably straight. Lovely tropical views, villages, palm and banana trees with the occasional beach. Sambava is a lunch and bank stop. They'll only let me change 1000 euros and I'm there nearly an hour.
On to Antalaha where I have a couple of dealers! to see. Well the first shock is there are no real hotels here. It used to be only a dirt road until they upgraded it and no hotels for visitors. We'll have to go back to Samvaba for the night.
The dealers are a wash with only quartz and picked over aqua and garnet.
We locate a villa at Sambava, right on the beach with good cheap rooms and food, but no a/c. Its quite hot here in the high 20's C. Bed early as we hope to go to Andapa and back to Vohemar all in one day tomorrow.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
20th June Antsiranana - Vohemar
That teal sapphire and the photo doesn't do it justice.Left early to see the sapphire, the tour group was also leaving and heading south, a fact i was to regret shortly.
Arrived at the designated place at about 8am and started to look at stone. As per usual they show smaller pieces first to check out what your paying and of course there had to be one that showed me some glass. 3-4cts of material just like Australian material, green, yellow, blue and party only the blue is lighter. Also dogs teeth were plentiful.
They were just getting out the bigger pieces, I'd just bought a spectacular 15ct blue/yellow and a very unusual but beatiful teal coloured stone, when who should turn up. I have never seen 11 people, the miners, move so quickly. They disappeared from around me and reappeared around the french tour group so quickly.
I could only watch the frenzy from the outside. One gentleman I watched parted with a 1000 euro's for about a 10ct blue piece of rough. The miners were having a field day and I realized I'd be lucky to see any quality stones left. Had to laugh as the guy who tried to sell me glass disappeared after managing to sell it.
One of the smart tourist ask me to check a 10ct orange sapphire he was being offered. A quick check confirmed it wasn't a sapphire, but dichroic (orange and orange/brown), natural and with what looked like part of a manganese spectrum, crystal sytem was all wrong as well. I was hoping he wouldn't buy it as I would like to have a play with it but he did. It was the only one the miners had of that colour, Bugger!
There wasn't much left after they departed, I took one more piece and then started seeing all the ones I'd already rejected again so I moved on. 50 - 60 grams of quality rough so I was reasonably happy. Again I was told all the miners had moved onto gold panning.
Arrived at Ambilobe at about 9.30 where we would turn east across the island to Vohemar. Picked up some food as there is nowhere to stop to eat on the trip across. 164km that the driver was telling me we'de be lucky to do in the daylight.
Right from the start I realized that the road was really that bad. Also every creek and river we crossed had so many people panning for gold. I wanted to stop and take some photo's but as soon as we started to slow groups of armed young men would appear so we moved on.
OH what a road, at one stage we covered 2.7km in an hour, with me walking out front and guiding him. 12 hours later with me twice having my head slammed into the roof of the 4x4 and with an aching neck we reached a hotel at Vohemar, the Sol Y Mar. The worst thing was I realized we would have to go back that way to get back to Tana. Thankfully the owners were still up watching the world cup and got one of the staff to whip us up some dinner. The room was basic, I could hear the water lapping on the beach, and it had a mossie net and the beer was cold the perfect end to the day.
19th June Antsiranana
Just some of the local inhabitants - a chameleon and a gecko
Bit of a sore head but after breakfast we spent the morning feeling out the gemstone situation. I've got good leads on material on the east coast, aquamarine, sphene and a reasonably new deposit of of green garnet, supposedly dematoid.
We have also arranged for some miners working a small sapphire field to the south to meet us on the main road tomorrow with what they have available. I wanted initially to go out to them but it involves quite a hike through the bush and time tomorrow is a problem.
After lunch its out to do a few tourist things. There is a nice national park to the south where its easy to see lemurs and there are a number of attractions around the harbour that are worth looking at. When I go to get my camera, my daughters actually, its missing. It could of gone walking when the police checked all my gear at Anbanja, I was keeping my eye on the money.
The harbour is very big and well under utilized, supposedly the biggest in the Indian Ocean.
Over dinner I hear that tourism has plunged from 500,000/year to less than 30,000 since the coup. The tour guides tell me that this is their first tour in 3 months and its now the hieght of the tourist season. Watched Australia draw in football and off to bed, we have a very early start at 6.30 tomorrow.
We have also arranged for some miners working a small sapphire field to the south to meet us on the main road tomorrow with what they have available. I wanted initially to go out to them but it involves quite a hike through the bush and time tomorrow is a problem.
After lunch its out to do a few tourist things. There is a nice national park to the south where its easy to see lemurs and there are a number of attractions around the harbour that are worth looking at. When I go to get my camera, my daughters actually, its missing. It could of gone walking when the police checked all my gear at Anbanja, I was keeping my eye on the money.
The harbour is very big and well under utilized, supposedly the biggest in the Indian Ocean.
Over dinner I hear that tourism has plunged from 500,000/year to less than 30,000 since the coup. The tour guides tell me that this is their first tour in 3 months and its now the hieght of the tourist season. Watched Australia draw in football and off to bed, we have a very early start at 6.30 tomorrow.
18th June Ambanja - Antsiranana
Finally they arrive back at about 10am. I have to call the official and I'm told that their is a small fine involved, even though I have done nothing wrong plus I must visit him when I return to Tana, he wants that to be the 25th June but I get it changed to the 28th June. My fine 20 euro disappears into a pocket, no receipt and I'm also told not to go back to that field.
We head north at about 11am with an escort out of town, it seems I don't get to stop for food either. Thank god for bananas. After 24+ hours I finally get a meal at Ambilobe. The quality wasn't great, and I had to wait nearly an hour as its made when ordered but by that stage I didn't care.
Seeing signs of panning or actually panners in a lot of creeks running off the central highlands. I wonder if there are and mining companies prospecting up here yet?
The last 131 km to Antsiranana takes 2 1/2 hours as the road is very poor in patches. I end up at the "Le Grand Hotel" and it is certainly that. I wouldn't normally stay in this quality hotel as I dislike wasting the money ($110/night) on what is essentally just a place to sleep but they offer me a great discount ($60/night) and I figure I deserve a night or two of luxury.
The only other tourist there are the older gentlemen and a group (16) of younger french couples.
That night at dinner I get to talking with the chef and his french girlfriend as well as the group of french tourist. We are over in an area by ourselves as the rest of the place is taken up with the older men and their local partners.
When we get onto the subject of sex tourism the chef's offer to take us to a disco which is an eye opener. As everyone else is going, and its bloody boring at nights here, I go to. I know something is up as they are conversing to quick in french for me to follow, and I'm getting little laughs with the looks. Thirty seconds after arriving I know why. There are about 50 older gentlemen, mainly french but I hear some german as well and about 200 18-25 year olds. Just getting to the bar was an effort, slapping away hands literally groping for my attention. The french, between laughing their heads off, tried to help but it was like fighting off a frenzied pack of sharks with a tooth pick. I made it through 1 drink before heading back to the hotel bar with some of the french acting as escorts. They failed miserably as there were not too many places left untouched by the journey out. We all had a good laugh back at the hotel about it, even the waiters got in on the joke. The female Matre D even offered to take me to disco where the girls were even more hospitable. Finally headed off to bed, alone, at about 1am. Wishing I hadn't told the driver to be there at 8am.
We head north at about 11am with an escort out of town, it seems I don't get to stop for food either. Thank god for bananas. After 24+ hours I finally get a meal at Ambilobe. The quality wasn't great, and I had to wait nearly an hour as its made when ordered but by that stage I didn't care.
Seeing signs of panning or actually panners in a lot of creeks running off the central highlands. I wonder if there are and mining companies prospecting up here yet?
The last 131 km to Antsiranana takes 2 1/2 hours as the road is very poor in patches. I end up at the "Le Grand Hotel" and it is certainly that. I wouldn't normally stay in this quality hotel as I dislike wasting the money ($110/night) on what is essentally just a place to sleep but they offer me a great discount ($60/night) and I figure I deserve a night or two of luxury.
The only other tourist there are the older gentlemen and a group (16) of younger french couples.
That night at dinner I get to talking with the chef and his french girlfriend as well as the group of french tourist. We are over in an area by ourselves as the rest of the place is taken up with the older men and their local partners.
When we get onto the subject of sex tourism the chef's offer to take us to a disco which is an eye opener. As everyone else is going, and its bloody boring at nights here, I go to. I know something is up as they are conversing to quick in french for me to follow, and I'm getting little laughs with the looks. Thirty seconds after arriving I know why. There are about 50 older gentlemen, mainly french but I hear some german as well and about 200 18-25 year olds. Just getting to the bar was an effort, slapping away hands literally groping for my attention. The french, between laughing their heads off, tried to help but it was like fighting off a frenzied pack of sharks with a tooth pick. I made it through 1 drink before heading back to the hotel bar with some of the french acting as escorts. They failed miserably as there were not too many places left untouched by the journey out. We all had a good laugh back at the hotel about it, even the waiters got in on the joke. The female Matre D even offered to take me to disco where the girls were even more hospitable. Finally headed off to bed, alone, at about 1am. Wishing I hadn't told the driver to be there at 8am.
17th June Mahajunga - Ambanja
Left without breakfast as they still hadn't set it up 30 minutes after I asked for it to be ready. This is not a problem as its quite easy to get fruit, bread rolls, tomatoes at roadside venues, plus I have a lot of water on board.
I'm seeing a few parcels of stones but the quality is poor and they have obviously been cherry picked already. The common theme I'm hearing is no gemstone mining, gold. There has been some large discoveries of aluvial gold in the north and most of the gemstone miners have moved on. Thankfully I have some parcels arranged in Tana and the south.
Just south of Ambanja we are told some miners are still working a small sapphire deposit so we follow the directions and eventually find them. They don't have many stones with them but we can view the rest at their ville. As we are about to depart the police arrive. What do they want to see of course my DSTM which doesn't exist anymore.
After much discussion its decided that we WILL! accompany them to the outskirts of Ambanja so we can get in touch with the official whose number I have. He's not in and so I again have to accompany the police into Ambanja. We stop at a small hotel, it doesn't rate any stars even negitive, no running water, food, or power after dark. I'm basically under house arrest and must wait until tomorrow. I arrange for the driver to bring me some food, I have water. He doesn't come because, as I find out later, he has been forbidden to by the police.
I spend a very hot, dirty and mossie infested night.
I'm seeing a few parcels of stones but the quality is poor and they have obviously been cherry picked already. The common theme I'm hearing is no gemstone mining, gold. There has been some large discoveries of aluvial gold in the north and most of the gemstone miners have moved on. Thankfully I have some parcels arranged in Tana and the south.
Just south of Ambanja we are told some miners are still working a small sapphire deposit so we follow the directions and eventually find them. They don't have many stones with them but we can view the rest at their ville. As we are about to depart the police arrive. What do they want to see of course my DSTM which doesn't exist anymore.
After much discussion its decided that we WILL! accompany them to the outskirts of Ambanja so we can get in touch with the official whose number I have. He's not in and so I again have to accompany the police into Ambanja. We stop at a small hotel, it doesn't rate any stars even negitive, no running water, food, or power after dark. I'm basically under house arrest and must wait until tomorrow. I arrange for the driver to bring me some food, I have water. He doesn't come because, as I find out later, he has been forbidden to by the police.
I spend a very hot, dirty and mossie infested night.
Friday, June 25, 2010
Wednesday 16th June Tana - Mahajanga
Photo's are of rice paddies on the outskirts of Mahajunga and everyone moving there produce to market day by zebu carts.
I've got a new driver, wish I could keep the same one all the time, and we head north. I have never been north, I know where some mining takes place but a lot depends of the driver talking to locals in every village/town we go.
There is some great scenery on the first part of the drive, lots of mountains and the country side looks like Australia in a lot of places, red dirt and gum trees. After decending off the plateau we stop at Maevatanana, at a local restaurant (for want of a better name) for lunch and it is quite good. Small meat portions but lots of sauce and rice. Who can argue with the price 8000ar ($4) for two people with drinks.
Its a hot high 20'sC and a very tropical look to the landscape, with lots of creeks and river crossings. At one I copped quite an eyeful, about seven 18 year olds? washing in the river. They certainly weren't shy happily waving to me and the driver. Every water point we are crossing has the locals bathing, so nudity is very casual here.
Reach the junction where I can either continue north or head for Mahajanga on the coast. The driver tells me there is not much in the way of hotels north, that we can reach before dark, so we head for the coast. The road is bad in stretches but we eventually arrive about 5pm.
I need to work with the driver on what constitutes a good hotel. The first he takes me to is about -3stars. We eventually end up at the Sunny Hotel which is very good. Great food, cold very cold beer, a/c and mossie nets. The last is a must here as even in winter there are clouds of mossies. The only other tourist were a couple of older French guys with there young companions. This getting to be a common sight, sex tourism.
We haven't seen much stone and what there was was all quartz.
There is some great scenery on the first part of the drive, lots of mountains and the country side looks like Australia in a lot of places, red dirt and gum trees. After decending off the plateau we stop at Maevatanana, at a local restaurant (for want of a better name) for lunch and it is quite good. Small meat portions but lots of sauce and rice. Who can argue with the price 8000ar ($4) for two people with drinks.
Its a hot high 20'sC and a very tropical look to the landscape, with lots of creeks and river crossings. At one I copped quite an eyeful, about seven 18 year olds? washing in the river. They certainly weren't shy happily waving to me and the driver. Every water point we are crossing has the locals bathing, so nudity is very casual here.
Reach the junction where I can either continue north or head for Mahajanga on the coast. The driver tells me there is not much in the way of hotels north, that we can reach before dark, so we head for the coast. The road is bad in stretches but we eventually arrive about 5pm.
I need to work with the driver on what constitutes a good hotel. The first he takes me to is about -3stars. We eventually end up at the Sunny Hotel which is very good. Great food, cold very cold beer, a/c and mossie nets. The last is a must here as even in winter there are clouds of mossies. The only other tourist were a couple of older French guys with there young companions. This getting to be a common sight, sex tourism.
We haven't seen much stone and what there was was all quartz.
Friday 11th June -Arrival and first days in Madagascar
Well I just knew I was going to have a bad day at the airport in Tana when I realised i didn't have a low domination us$ just before arrival. I've learned that if you put a $1us in your passport there are fewer hassels for business travellers. I wasn't going to put a $20us note in so would just have to suffer. I don't know how many times the customs official shook my passport trying to get something to fall out but she eventually stamped it and then I caught the nod she gave to the other one with her. After getting my bag I walked to the "nothing to declare" lane and who should be waiting. Everything was taken out of every bag and when he was finished he just smiled and signaled that I could replace it. Lesson learnt!
Next shock the "Guichet" where you pick up your DSTM (buyers card) is closed. Bugger that means staying Monday and going to the Dept of Energy and Mines. Settle in to the Tana plaza Hotel.
Saturday and Sunday 12th-13th June
Get sim cards and supplies, visit the Craft Market at the "Dyke" and pick up Sandra's requests.
Monday 14th June
Visit the Mines Dept and am told the DSTM system is gone. They want buyers to set up companies here so they also have to pay taxes, in addition to duties or purchase off existing companies. When pressed as I don't have the required visa to set up a company, the third option is using a customs broker to clear all goods. Third option it will have to be. I will have to spend another day here to call some contacts and find a good broker. The new limit, you can take out is only $500 and now includes cut stones. Its a joke as most tourist buy more than this. The customs people will be having a ball at the airport imposing duties on tourist, most of which doesn't get to the Government anyway
Tuesday 15th June
I have finally found a broker but she will require up to 4-5 days to do the paperwork and get it approved, days I will have to hang around Tana. I'm bleeding days left, right and centre here. At least I'll be off tomorrow.
Next shock the "Guichet" where you pick up your DSTM (buyers card) is closed. Bugger that means staying Monday and going to the Dept of Energy and Mines. Settle in to the Tana plaza Hotel.
Saturday and Sunday 12th-13th June
Get sim cards and supplies, visit the Craft Market at the "Dyke" and pick up Sandra's requests.
Monday 14th June
Visit the Mines Dept and am told the DSTM system is gone. They want buyers to set up companies here so they also have to pay taxes, in addition to duties or purchase off existing companies. When pressed as I don't have the required visa to set up a company, the third option is using a customs broker to clear all goods. Third option it will have to be. I will have to spend another day here to call some contacts and find a good broker. The new limit, you can take out is only $500 and now includes cut stones. Its a joke as most tourist buy more than this. The customs people will be having a ball at the airport imposing duties on tourist, most of which doesn't get to the Government anyway
Tuesday 15th June
I have finally found a broker but she will require up to 4-5 days to do the paperwork and get it approved, days I will have to hang around Tana. I'm bleeding days left, right and centre here. At least I'll be off tomorrow.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Just a few photo's of the Island and the hotel area of Post Louis. I have been doing the normal tourist things, markets, shops, food, visited 2 diamond cutting factories etc. People are nice, food is great but taxi's are expensive. I suggest you hire a car, they drive the same side as Australia.
The beach photos are from Flic N Flac on the west side of the Island and the others are taken from my hotel room and around the hotel on the Port Louis waterfront. It resembles the V&A waterfront in Cape Town. I was not initially booked into this hotel, its 5 star, but the hotel I was booked into accepted a convention booking and kicked me up into their sister hotel. I could get used to 5 star accommodation!
Around the island sugar cane is everywhere as are the factories producing the product made from it, RUM.
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